F.A.Q.

Frequently Asked Questions:

Is it cold down there?

Although it is obviously expected to be cold down here at the bottom of the Earth, it is now summertime in Antarctica. The temperatures range anywhere from the upper 20's Fahrenheit to upper 30's; it's much like the dead of winter in the Pacific Northwest, say mid-January during a cold snap with snow on the ground.  With the warmth my incredibly effective and cozy U.S. Polo Association parka (bought at a steal on eBay for $35!), I am always toasty even in the worst conditions. Usually, I only have to wear my thermal underwear (the equivalent of a long-sleeve t-shirt) under the parka without a sweater, and I'm perfectly warm.  There have been many occasions when the sun is shining when I've been quite comfortable on deck in just a t-shirt and wool cap to keep my bald head toasty. I've been quite surprised by that.  The only element that creates a bitter cold is when the wind picks up.  But with my parka's four-inch-thick insulation and its fabulous hood with the fur ruff to protect my face and ears, even out on the Zodiak at top speed in splashing Antarctic water spraying me and snow falling, inside I am snug as a bug in a rug.  For those of you who fear it would be "too cold" for you to travel here, get over it!

What's the food like?

The food is as good as you can find at any fine, four-star restaurant - and absolutely delicious. The dining hall serves three meals a day and has a small coffee bar that serves tea, coffee, biscuits and shortbread cookies 24/7 for those early morning or late night snacks that are sometimes necessary.  Breakfasts are buffet-style and consist of an assortment of 8-10 types of cereals and grains, yogurt, milk and cream, for starters.  Then the heavy duty items come next: bacon, scrambled or poached eggs, sausages, bacon, fried bread or French toast, beans, mushrooms, several kinds of fish and honey ham.  Another entire section of the buffet is devoted to breads, rolls, muffins, croissants, pastries, jams and butter with at least two types of fresh juice to choose from.  Another large table offers a wide array of fresh fruits- pineapple, kiwi, sliced or whole bananas, pears, Mandarin oranges, peaches, watermelon and so on. Lunch, again served cafeteria-style, begins with a variety of different kinds of green salads (but NO ICEBERG LETTUCE– talk about irony!) with all the trimmings – olives, artichoke hearts, croutons, etc. – along with dishes like potato, macaroni and three bean salad, followed by a whole host of sliced cheeses and meats and then by the main lunch selections of lasagna, casseroles, meat dishes including beef, pork, chicken and fish. Soup is also served at lunch and dinner as are a wide assortment of delectable, calorie-laden desserts that are always impossible to resist. Dinner is always a traditional, sit-down, more formal event with a selection of at least two or three appetizers and main courses from a wide variety of international menus.  Often there are themes for dinner, as we saw with the recent barbeque and Indian nights.  Last night, it was “Black and White” night to celebrate our penguin friends in which guests were challenged to come up with the most creative outfits using whatever clothes and found materials we could find in our cabins to fit the two-shades-only color scheme. Prizes were given out at the end of the dinner for the most imaginative outfits, and there were plenty of hilarious entries and plenty of laughter. Tonight, apparently it’s “French Night”. Oo la la! I am not accustomed to eating three large meals a day, which I did for the first several days, but I have cut back to only two meals per day so insure I won’t return home twenty pound heavier than when left.

How much is all this costing you?

A lot! I know my homegirl, Ms. Thang, will say it’s tacky to disclose information like this, but several people have asked about it. The price of the just the cruise itself was about $4,400 and the air fare another $2,200, and then there are always the other “extra” expenses for Antarctic clothing, necessities, miscellaneous travel items, tipping, souvenirs, insurance, etc. etc. Bottom line will be around $7,000, but every Lincoln penny of it was absolutely worth it in my opinion.

Aren't you bored being stuck on a ship for two weeks?

Not in the least. On the contrary, they are keeping us so busy that at times I wish I had more “down time” just to relax, read, or check my email. It’s much like polar boot camp. Wake up calls are generally at 6:30 a.m., breakfast at 7:00, Zodiak excursion # 1at 8:00, lectures, briefings, informative briefings at 11:00, lunch at noon, Zodiak trip #2 around 3:00, an occasional meeting or presentation around 6::00, dinner at 7:30 and then we are generally free and exhausted by 9:00. It’s a busy day every day, but always fun, exciting, fascinating and fulfilling. Every day has been extremely well-organized down the very last detail.

Will you be seeing the South Pole?

I will not even be close to the South Pole. The cruise is only touring the South Shetland Islands and about 200 miles southward along the Antarctic Peninsula. To get to the South Pole, I’d have to travel by ship to the Ross Sea on the far side of Antarctica and then fly by helicopter to the Pole, which would be extremely costly.  My goal was to step foot on the continent, and I’ve done that repeatedly now over the past 10 days.  So my goal has been met several times over.

What is the service like on board?         

The entire service staff (room service, wait staff in the dining room, maintenance people, reception, laundry, etc.) is from the Philippines. They work a staggering seven days a week for eight months straight and then take a two month break and begin another eight month contract.  When the Antarctic season ends in February, they all move to the Arctic cruise ships and work up north at the same superhuman endurance pace. The service is exceptional.  Guests are treated like royally.  The beds are made up and cabins cleaned three times per day. The ship is spotless. The bridge is run entirely by Eastern European or Russian seamen who are experienced at sailing in polar conditions and run the ship in the most professional manner possible. The Expedition leaders include a marine biologist, a geologist, a biologist, a historian, a naturalist, an ornithologist, a professional musician, a kayak master and a couple of Zodiak masters. In addition to that, Susan Adie, our head expedition leader, has made over 140 trips to Antarctica and is considered one of the leading experts on the continent and knows every single bay, fjord, strait, glacier, island, mountain, inlet, nook and cranny of this region. Having Susan as our guide has been an incredible privilege for all of us on the Expedition. Not only am I well cared for, but I have learned an encyclopedia of information about Antarctica.  I can see five different species of penguins and identify them instantly and the same with many types of the thirty species of birds we have sighted since we left Ushuaia ten days ago. Overall, the entire crew and staff have made this journey not only fun but also entertaining and educational.

What is your cabin like?

Well, it’s not the Hilton Hotel, but it’s very comfortable. I’m sharing a “Category 2” cabin with one other person who, fortunately, is considerate and thoughtful. Efforts were made to match up guests with similar demographics. When my cabinmate, Robert, finds me taking an occasional catnap (or would that be “penguin nap”?), he tiptoes around me or closes the curtains to darken the room. The cabin itself is about 20 feet by 12 feet with two single beds, a night stand, a writing desk, a closet with three large sections, a standard chair, a public announcement system and a private bath with a Lilliputian-size shower, very tight but ample enough for long showers after being out in the ice, snow and wind. So, I’m grateful for it (but missing my big clawfoot tub back home). "Category 3” cabins have three beds, one being a bunk bed, so I’m grateful not to be in one of those! (Thank you, Kathy, my beloved and talented travel agent!) The beds are small and simple with crisp, white sheets and one large cotton “featherbed”-style comforter which keeps me warm as an oven all night long. I’ve slept soundly every single night, although some nights I’ve stayed up extremely late writing and trying to upload entries on this blog, frustrated by the lack of connectivity to the Internet, and only had 4-5 hours sleep. Thank goodness the Expedition’s coffee is dark and strong. 

How many passengers are on board?

There are 114 passengers on the ship with six empty spaces. The entire crew and staff number approximately 35, I would estimate. It’s a big happy family, and I believe I know about half the guests’ names by heart after more than a week. There is a “no keys” policy on board the M/S Expedition – meaning the cabins have no locks, and everyone is on the honor system. Often, I’ve set my laptop down in the lounge to go grab something from my cabin, and never once was I worried about having it stolen.  It’s wonderful to live in this environment of trust, support, mutual respect and friendship.  I wish the world was more like this group of adventurers I’m traveling with.

Have you seen any whales?

Seen them? Yes, I have seen four whales.  Photographed any? Unfortunately not. It is early in the season for whale sightings, so there are not many whales in the region at this time.  The handful of times the whales have been spotted by passengers, which always causes a frantic stir and scramble to the nearest window or observation deck on board, I have been without my camera. Dang it.

Have you had any mishaps on this trip?

Knock on wood – no major problems to date.  The worst of it was spilling an entire cup of hot coffee all over my lap on my overnight flight from Houston to Buenos Aires – ouch!  How totally embarrassing, looking as if I’d peed my pants for the next two hours until it dried and then smelling like low-grade java for the rest of my trip to Ushuaia.  Also, when I boarded the Expedition, one of two pieces of luggage (my carry-on bag with my prized Toshiba laptop, my lifeline to the Northern Hemisphere) was not in my cabin as the plan specified after it was picked up from my hotel and brought to the ship. For an entire hour, I paced the ship’s halls looking for it, sweating bullets with increasing skepticism about this “keyless” policy with over 100 strangers.  But alas, it had been delivered to the wrong room, and someone dutifully turned it in. Finally, last night after dinner, I was on the bow surveying the exquisite sunset illuminating the Bransfield Strait drinking a cup of coffee, as I entered the ship some ice on the bottom of my shoe caused me to slip and the whole cup of coffee went flying and landed all over the carpet – much to my chagrin. I have the worst luck with coffee it seems…a total klutz. If those three incidents are the lot of my troubles, I count myself lucky!

Are you having fun?

YES! (Duh)